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Awesome! I think its the best size jon boat out there. I hope you continue to enjoy it

I do not know. I would ask the manufacturer you are interested in for the measurements.

Yes.

If you're loading it into your truck bed, that gets old quick. Maybe if you didn't have anything in the jon boat and its only 100 or 150 pounds, but after fishing all day in the summer and then having to load the boat in the bed afterward, it only happened a handful of times. If you are just keeping it on the ground and going from back backyard to the lake out back, yes completely practical. If you plan to do it, keep it as light as possible because the issue is loading it back up after spending all day in the sun. Not when you're playing around with it in your yard. 12 or 14 doesn't matter when it comes to weight and that is the big issue for me. Length wise you'll need the bed extender for the 14 and you may not need one for the 12. Depends on the brand. Last I looked at the Tracker Toppers, it seemed like the 1236 and 1436 had the same footprint in the water and the 1436 just had more bow out of the water so you would have the same surface area in the bed between the two.

I don't know. If the mud skipper kit has a tapered shaft then I think it would

I would recommend getting a tachometer for the engine so that you know. Just from the sounds of it, if it's a true thai longtail, a 7.5" prop would be small for that setup. An 8.5 should run pretty well on that with a normal to light load if it is a riveted jon boat. If the 8.5" is too big, the 8" would be the go too. Again, I would think the 7.5" would be too small unless its a welded boat that's fully loaded.

@@JTgatoring there’s about 500 pounds in the boat normally (2 people, battery’s, etc) and the 8.5 ran pretty good but any thick mud or thick/tall weeds would choke the motor down a lotttt

Thank you @vargashidalgo9602!

I have videos on how much the floor and front deck weigh. Then I had a big deep cycle battery up front so guestimate at 60lbs there, plus the trolling motor, and then miscellaneous stuff that was probably about 20lbs. If it was a fishing trip, I would have a cooler with ice, a couple of rods, and a bow. Sometimes I would have a second person with me but I normally ran the weedless prop anyway. Speed was never a priority. Most of the distances I fish are quite short.

@@JTgatoring yeah okay I’ll be sure to watch those videos ! But speed is some what a priority because I’m running long stretches of river. With a group but what’s your opinion on float pods ? I’m thinking on adding them but will I loose speed. If I do them correctly I shouldn’t right ?

@@coltensawyer6761 Float pods will make you lose speed with a longtail. If anything, it would have to be one "float pod" that goes from side to side, aka a hunt deck. You want the trailing edge of the transom to be one straight line. When you add float pods, you break that line which negatively affects performance when it comes to a longtail. Look up "hull speed". Boat hulls hit a wall when they reach a certain speed depending on the design of the hull. After that wall, any additional power added is less effective. As a general rule, if the width of the boat is kept the same and the length is increased, the hull-speed/hull-efficiency increases also, but with increased length, there is also more drag due to increased surface area so more power will be needed. So what I guess I'm trying to explain is, you are adding more weight and more surface area and not changing your hp so you will likely see a decrease in speed unless the changes made greatly increase the efficiency of the hull.

@@JTgatoring okay fair enough! I was thinking on trying them because they helped my buddy’s boat out Is why I ask ! How much bow rise do you want when running the boat ? Basically how much of the bow should not be contacting the water when planing out ? On are size boats. Few feet ? Thanks man your knowledge helps me !

@@coltensawyer6761 Through my eyes, when running on plane, the water line should be just behind the weld point on the jon boat bow where the bottom starts to make the bend to the bow. You want to ride pretty level, but if you were to favor one over the other, I would rather be transom-heavy than bow-heavy when it comes to performance. If you are bow heavy or just overloaded, the boat will start to plow which kills performance.

If you are 150lb or less and can pull your weight up and over, yes and the water does get close to going over the side. But it is easier to have a rope with a loop on the bow (tied to the handle that comes stock on most jon boats). This way you can grab onto the bow, put your foot in the loop, and use it as a step and the boat doesn't move much this way either. You could also do this at the transom, but you normally have an engine in the way and it may be hot... So the bow is my choice, but I don't go in and out of the water a bunch.

As long as the boat sits flat, or has just a little bow rise, you should be good. If it's hard to handle, add more bow weight to see if it helps. I run the 8.5 hurricane with my 13hp on the 1436 as you see it in the videos. It sounds like the same weight as your rig minus the difference in the engine. If you think the boat will be too heavy for the 8.5 hurricane, I wouldn't worry about it. Maybe if you had a 13hp engine like me, but I still get 20mph +. So I don't see why it would not work for you. You may have a little more weight, but almost double the power.

Hey @mikalray6210, I very much appreciate that. I still check in regularly and I'm more than happy to let you know what happened. So I ended up rebuilding the transom. I replaced the wood in the transom by just cutting plywood to size, epoxying it, and painting it. I then used aluminum angle on the transom; I used aluminum square tube on the bottom of the hull running side to side, and then put angle perpendicular to that which was in-line with the angle on the transom; and then I used angle from the transom to the floor making a triangle. I bolted it all together and secured it with bolts through the hull and transom. I also added another aluminum plate on the inside of the transom. I did everything that way to show all the possibilities someone could do (I took video through out the process and will post it when I get time). Doing all of them is completely overkill. If you have any questions, just let me know. I did not attach anything to the seat. The transom does sit slightly lower in the water compared to before. Best of luck to you and thank you for taking the time to leave your kind comment.

Unfortunately, attending to problems that have priority over the videos. I will be posting again, it's just a matter of when. It has been quite some time since I've been out on the water so I hope that it is sooner rather than later haha thank you for taking the time to leave a comment @billymoon1775

The main stress put on a transom is torque. This is normally when the engine is running and when the hull is being trailered. Sitting should be fine if you put weight up front, but just make sure the engine is secure enough during travel so that it does not continually flex the transom when trailering. I have no need to put a 670 on a 1436 so it would be something I wouldn't do. I would just get a longer hull.

@@JTgatoring okay. I did a 670 because the plan is a bigger boat just not now. Just making what I have work. But Transom is 1.5 thick aluminum one from TBN then 1/4 plate on the back covering 34-13 of it. Has two floor to Transom braces and then in the inside corners angle aluminum from Transom to side to keep that tight and on top I made a 1/8 channel that goes across back then welds to angle iron on corners then up the side and rivit and bolts it down as a top brace. So as long as motor is braced well when transporting I should be good to leave it on when not using it and the floor will be okay not flex or make a big dent up with weight on it all week ? What’s your opinion on those two things ? Thanks man ! RUclips is the only help I have

​@@coltensawyer6761 For the transom: you have it secured and braced. It's fine. Normally the "recommendations" for the rated horsepower of the transom is for buoyancy purposes. A 13hp is going to give you a lot more freeboard than that 22hp. The floor: The hull needs to sit flat on the trailer at all times. The more surface area you have to disperse the weight the better. As soon as the bow starts to float, less surface contact is made which increases pressure on the remaining surface contact This is the same for the floor. If you built your floor like I did, the foam is in contact with the hull, and the weight is dispersed fairly well. Don't overload it, use your best judgment. If you think it's going to dent it, then don't do it and see what happens. Live and learn.

@@JTgatoring ​​⁠okay so I have a floor in the front with foam only with my gas and battery that’s is around 90 pounds. And my trailer bunks are 2x4s. The wide way and there 8 or 10 feet in length on each outer run of the boat and then across in the front is a 4x4 post the width of the boat. Transom I explained. So probably okay to leave the motor on the boat when I’m not using it in your opinion with what I’ve described to you ? I see you had not had floor issues but your motor is 130 pounds not 170

Yeah. That should be fine. The only thing I learned was to not put your battery directly on the floor of the boat and go down a rough dirt road. It dents it up something serious. So just make sure the hull is protected in regards to that, but weight-wise, I don't see an issue. As long as everything is secure and doesn't move easily, and you're safe about it, then you should be good. If you make a small mistake you'll learn from it.

@@JTgatoring 10/4 on that I have a floor like you made in just my front portion with my fuel and battery which adds up to 95 pounds plus my small anchor I think it will be okay if you had around 100 as well and nothing happens to yours! Thanks for the tips. My next thing I’m sorting is I replaced my Transom and had to take the brace out the floor to Transom out. So I replaced the rivets with stainless bolts and washers in the floor. Was easier way for me then getting a solid rivit tool. but now the screw heads sit on the trailer bunk instead of siting on the actual boat bottom. Three are clear and three sit on the edge. I think my best bet is to cut a slot with a skill saw a 1/4 depth. All I can think to do ! Just don’t want three points of contact with a motor pushing on them ! Thanks man

That would depend on the shaft. I know I can on my swamp runner shaft

@@JTgatoring MINE IS A MUD SKIPPER... 2 PIECE OF TUBE... THE GUYS SAY IT HAS WOODEN BUSHINGS ANY SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO GET THEM OUT... HAVE PLAY IN THE AXLE...

I appreciate that. Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment 👊

It's still pretty smooth. For me, it works. Gator blood, sand, dirt, pollen, and fish slime all clean up easily with a wet rag. I'm normally barefoot and it's enough traction for me. I was going to do sand, but the last time I did it on another project, it was too aggressive and hard to clean with a rag. I've never had the foam, so I can't comment on it, but I don't like stains and things that hold or trap water. So in the end, for me, the paint splatter worked great, but it doesn't really add much traction if that's what you are going for.

The two main things I would do is make sure that the bunks extend past the transom so that the entire hull is supported and then I would position the winch so that it secures the hull down against the stop/roller. If that means you move your winch down or your stop/roller, then I would do that.

Okay I’ll do that. Basically I need to make my winch pull the boat DOWN onto the flat bumper instead of the winch being above the bumper pulling it up ?

@@coltensawyer6761 sounds about right. I would double-check the load in the boat and make sure the boat is sitting flat on the bunks first and that you aren't pulling your boat up onto the roller/bumper. If your boat is that transom heavy, you need to add some bow weight.

@@JTgatoringyeah my trailer bunks are long enough and they sit even and flat and then it doesn’t have a roller in front just a carpet bunk sideways. All adjustable. I’ll do as you said raise them all make sure even. Add front weight. Make sure the boat is winched down not pulled up ! If that doesn’t work I’ll have to figure something else out.

@@JTgatoringyeah my trailer bunks are long enough and they sit even and flat and then it doesn’t have a roller in front just a carpet bunk sideways. All adjustable. I’ll do as you said raise them all make sure even. Add front weight. Make sure the boat is winched down not pulled up ! If that doesn’t work I’ll have to figure something else out.

Hey JustBlazin2001, I really appreciate that. Thanks for taking the time to comment. So the main purpose of the kill switch is to stop the engine (turn off the engine quickly). This is normally done (easiest way) by tapping into the low oil sensor. So you could just use a wiretap, but I didn't do it this way. I used bullet connectors for a more reliable connection. So what I did was cut the low oil sensor wire (normally yellow) and add a male bullet connector to the wire that is currently attached to the low oil sensor and a female bullet connector to the other wire so that way you can put it back together. Then create your own pigtail that will look like a V. You will have two wires going into a male connector and on the end of each of those wires will be a female bullet connector. Lastly, add a male connector onto the kill switch wire (it has to be the correct wire) the other wire will go to ground. Then, plug it all in. The male bullet of the low-oil goes into one of the female of the V adapter, and the kill-switch male goes into the other female of the V adapter. then the male part of the V adapter goes into the female of the low oil sensor. Hopefully, that makes sense?

@@JTgatoring awesome thank you!

Painted plywood. Then xps foam underneath

Well, after making this video, running it for a little, and then putting a swamp runner kit back on my boat, I prefer the swamp runner over it. If you have any questions, I'd be happy to answer them.

Without knowing any additional information, I would say yes, the 13hp is too much. Most people normally do the 8hp predator with a medium size kit for a boat of that size. Weight is normally the first issue (the waterline on the boat), and the second issue is the transom's strength and ability to handle the weight/hp/torque of that engine.

And have your conclusions changed with all your experience? SPS still the best?@@JTgatoring

@@rickshaw296 I'd say that I've stayed up to date due to actively managing a longtail Facebook group with over 21k members and I would say yes, I still think Swamp Runner offers the best longtail.

That's great, thanks for your input! 8.4hp GX 270 SPS Medium for the 1240 Lund it is!@@JTgatoring

What about the 14 ft Lund Jons? Were good up to 25 hp, do I stick with SPS, or is the upgrade to a mud buddy 23 or 25 worth it?@@JTgatoring

When I had the small swamp runner kit on a 212, the tiller weight was minimal so I tied it to the rib. When I went to the medium kit, that is when it seemed a bit excessive which also made me think about it. So it was either mount a support on the front of the seat face or build the floor. I decided to build the floor because it solved other issues I was having.

I’m running 22 predator and a swamp runner so it’s heavy. What do you mean by build a support on front seat like some aluminum side to side ? I’m gonna go that route I think. If I can understand how you think to do it ! Thanks

@@coltensawyer6761 I was talking about adding additional support to the seat. So I was thinking of adding either a plate/channel/tube to strengthen the actual seat and then tie it to that. So for example; put a piece of plate on the front part of the bench seat and secure an eye-bolt and hook there to tie a rope too or use square tube bolted or riveted across the bottom of the bench seat and put an eye-bolt or hook in that. Do whatever you can to strengthen the sheet metal on the bench seat and disperse the load as much as possible. I've also seen people use webbing with a hook on each end and put one hook under the seat and one hook on the handle. Think it through

@@JTgatoring thanks for the idea ! What about just a thick hay hauling ratchet strap that is long around the hole bench then hooked to the handle ? That would disperse it well over the hole thing correct ?

I chose swamp runner. The swamp runner was faster, had more prop selection, was smoother running with less vibration in the handle, and has a more simple design than the backwater. I can fix and rebuild my swamp runner out on the water if needed, but even if something goes wrong there's a high probability that it will be able to operate and make it back to the ramp.

⁠@@JTgatoringright on man i appreciate that. Trying to figure out a mud motor for a 1448LW. Was thinking the 420 pred or 459. With the 100” shaft

@@DHoppey10 yeah, no problem. That's just how I view it. Once you start getting into boats wider than 48" then I may consider a backwater, but when it comes to riveted jon boats with 23hp or less, the swamp runner for the price and performance is just a winner for me. If you are going with a 1448, you would want all the extra help you can get when it comes to hp so get the 459. That engine also weighs a little more so it will help better balance that 100" shaft. Width really kills speed.

@@JTgatoringright on man thanks again. I have a 1448 already with a 25hp johnson but im tired of the outboard life and only being able to get to few places on my chain of lakes…and having to take the long way around to get there 😂🤣

@@DHoppey10 Haha no disagreeing here. If you remember to, let me know what you end up doing and how it treats you. Best of luck!

Tay uzun kuyruğu. Tayland 'da üretilmiştir. Tayland'da SPS tarafından yapılmıştır. www.longtailboatsps.com/

Could you be more specific? If you are talking about the longtail shaft with the skeg on it, there are bushings that support the inner shaft of that 85" shaft.

I really appreciate it @StreetbeatDesigns67. I will be getting back to it. There were some things that took precedence and required my full attention. I haven't been out in the boat in a very long time. I've got some footage saved up and would like to get some of that posted and hopefully get things situated so I can start getting content back out again. Thanks again! Hopefully it won't be too much longer

@@JTgatoring Just got a Swamp Runner medium kit, putting it together today and I had to stop by to see if there was a new video yet lol

@@StreetbeatDesigns67 Haha only if. That would make for a great day. The next video that comes out, I'll reply back this for ya and let you know of it! Best of luck with your kit and I hope you enjoy it as much as I have enjoyed mine.

I never mounted the grab bar. I wanted to keep the open floor. When I get in the boat from the water I choose to use the front part of the bow. It's nice and open and stays steady. I can also tie a rope with a loop to step in since I have multiple anchor points up there too. If I try the transom, the engine is always in the way and the transom sits too low to the water. If I do the side, the edge gets too close to the water. So if I had a choice I use the bow.

Let me know how it goes for ya! Best of luck

I do not have any experience with that kit. If you are asking me for my opinion, I would say that if you are going to bolt any Thai-style longtail (a longtail without a plate over the prop) to a 670 motor and you want it to handle nicely and be reliable, it would be a large swamp runner kit.

The 1/4 plate is enough, especially if you have a 1/2" thick wood or more in the transom. That size plate should be plenty.

@@JTgatoring okay great my transom I’m puting in 1.5 thick aluminum one. Braces on inside and plate on out. You plan on making more Longtail videos?

Yes

@@JTgatoring ok so I have to take the nut off the couple shaft with the tool and then take everything off?

@@anthojnick9955 correct. Take the nut off the end of the coupler shaft, the coupler housing will then slide off once the four mounting bolts are removed, and then you will need to wipe the coupler shaft clean enough to find the set screw and loosen those to take the coupler shaft off the engine pto shaft.

@@JTgatoring so to do it with a impact do I have to keep the flywheel from spinning

@@anthojnick9955 in most cases, you need to stop the rotation of the engine PTO, but I've had a few people tell me that they used an impact and it came off without any additional prevention.